Discover France: Languedoc-Roussillon
- Monday, 1 December 2008
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There are wonderful views of the lake from Devil's Bridge.
There are places in the mountainous Massif Central region of France that are a bit too challenging for larger vehicles. In the valley of the Hérault, however, we found that we could easily negotiate the roads that passed through countryside of quite outstanding beauty right on the fringe of the Cévennes National Park.
We had driven inland 25 kilometres or so from Montpellier to reach the village of St Martin de Londres, and our base at Camping Pic St Loup, named after the highest peak in the neighbourhood. Here, Patrick and Brigitte welcome back caravanners and motorhomers year after year in a truly relaxed French atmosphere. They were keen to ensure that we got a real flavour of the area in which they live.
The countryside around St Martin is both rugged and gorgeous. The limestone hills are strewn with weather-worn boulders, while broom, gorse and other upland shrubs thrive in the fertile soil between, unless there’s enough room for a few vines, of course.
Exposed rock faces, where cuttings have been made to ease passage of a roadway, are often stained deep orange, showing where iron and other minerals have become exposed by centuries of erosion.
It is simply superb walking country, and you don’t have to travel far to find a real adventure. A walk to the Ravine of the Arches starts three kilometres or so from the campsite, and in a single afternoon we had views from the top crags of the ravine, crossed the river twice (in bare feet as there had been unexpected rain and the rocks were under water) and reached our goal at the bottom of the gorge.
Other walks are to be found without going far, and combine the same qualities, challenging but utterly lovely. Between rocky outcrops, a small number of vineyards thrive on the limestone soil,
and discovering the local Pic St Loup red wine proved an unexpected bonus. It’s soft on the palate, yet with plenty of body, and the heat of the sun warms you from every mouthful.
You cannot come to this area without visiting two of the most spectacular caves we’ve ever encountered, and they really are very different. A funicular railway hauls you right up into the mountain that is the home of the Grotte des Demoiselles, into the 52m high ‘cathedral’. Spectacular cascades of stalactites characterise this vast cavern, while it is the extraordinary ceiling growths, often yards long and pencil thin, that are so memorable in the Grotte de Clamouse.
We were spoiled for choice in this lovely area, and a day starting at the pleasure lake below the Pont du Diable (Devil’s Bridge), and working our way upstream along the Hérault was idyllic. We spotted coypu and kites, and realised that the region also offers fantastic possibilities to kayakers and rock-climbers.
The river varied from swirling, turquoise deeps to tranquil expanses, while the scenery changed at every bend, with rugged cliffs outlined against the blue sky. Our journey reached a turning point by the weir in the village of Laroque before heading back to camp for the final time on this visit. It certainly will not be our last.
DID YOU KNOW?
Pétanque and Boules are the same game. Pétanque refers to the sound of one boule hitting another
Grotte des Demoiselles
It seems strange to enter a cave by going up into the darkness in a funicular carriage, but once you get there, the formations of stalactites and stalagmites are spectacular, culminating in the impressive Cathedral of the Abyss. Our entertaining guide spoke English as well as French.
Hérault Valley
Start with the view over the lake below the Pont du Diable and enjoy a scenic drive north towards the market town of Ganges. There are stopping points along the way, though picturesque St-Guilhelm-le-Désert is not suitable for motorhomes. Perfect for a day out through scenic gorges and sun-soaked vineyards.
Grotte de Clamouse
An excellent introductory film shows graphically how the gorge and the caves were formed. You are then led into the series of chambers and levels, at each step adorned with extraordinary mineral and crystalline growths, sometimes reflected in underground pools. Tours are in English and French.
DID YOU KNOW?
Garrigues is the local name for the upland expanses where nature and grazing have brought about an ecological balance.
Where to walkRavine of the Arches
For a brilliant but challenging walk, try the circuit in the Ravine of the Arches. There’s a car park beside the D986, three kilometres from St Martin. The route is well marked, and climbs first one side then the other of the gorge of the Lamalou, a tributary of the Hérault. You’ll be breathless on two counts when the Arches come in sight, but it’s worth it. Take your binoculars for a view to remember.
Where to cycle
Pic St Loup
Borrow cycles from the site to ride up Pic St Loup and the nearby lake, or along D122 in the other direction to Frouzet and the Hérault gorge. During the main season, Patrick organises cycle rides of up 40 kilometres. This is great cycling country, but what goes down must come up again. It’s terrain for the fit and healthy, not the faint-hearted. Feels great to stay active though.
More activities
Chateaux among the rocks
Park near the junction of D1 and D122 on Pic St Loup and the spectacular ruined castle of Vivioures is one kilometre away. Move east along the D1 to a small side road and from here you can tackle the four and a half kilometre circuit to the Chateau of Montferrand. Some climbing is involved, so allow enough time and wear stout shoes, but the scenery’s superb.
NEED TO KNOW
1. Nearest shops are in Ganges, a few miles north of St Martin.
2. Friday morning is market day in Ganges.
3. Grotte des Demoiselles, open all year, e8.70.
Tel: 00 33 (0)4 67 73 70 02
Web: demoiselles.fr
4. Grotte de Clamouse, open all year, e8.50.
Tel: 00 33 (0)4 67 57 71 05
Web: clamouse.com
5. Winegrower Domaine de Darnieux near St Martin is open every day.
6. Parking signs in St-Guilhelm-le-Désert are for cars only.
WHERE TO STAY
Camping Pic St Loup, 34380, St Martin de Londres, Hérault
Tel: 00 33 (0)4 67 55 00 53
Open 1 April to 30 September, this is a relaxed, traditional site. Pitches are arranged at random, with some shady trees. There is table tennis, a boulodrome and a covered swimming pool, while the bar doubles as a restaurant from mid May. alanrogers.com.
GETTING THERE
From either direction on the A9, leave before Montpellier to bypass the city. Take the D986 towards Ganges. In 22 kilometres arrive at St Martin de Londres. Stay on the D986 to take the D122 to the right towards Pic St Loup. The campsite is immediately on the left.
To see more photos of Languedoc-Roussillon visit the gallery!
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